The E3’s DKC-800 control unit can be repurposed as a DKC-850 upgrade system with nothing more than the correct power adapter, a single DIP‑switch change, and one adjustment to your settings.

Now that the DKC-850 upgrade kit is discontinued, this approach is one potential way to bring your old Mark I, II, or III Disklavier into the modern era! It can be installed by piggybacking, as described on my Disklavier upgrade page. In some models, such as the Mark II and III, it can be installed a replacement with the addition of an adapter cable.

The DKC-800 control unit is currently still available from Yamaha new with part number WN755510. At the time of this writing (7/21/25), the system costs $1,623.14 retail with a 12-16 week back-order. Note that it doesn’t include any accessories: No power adapter, bracket, or remote control. Depending on your setup, you’ll have to add these—as described below.

Why add this system to your older Disklavier? It unlocks Disklavier Radio (Yamaha’s internet streaming service), allows you to use USB sticks easily and without emulators, and lets you connect the DKC-800 to external speakers.

I learned much of this information from Richie Hayes and Joey Ruggero at Yamaha. Richie has several videos outlining this process as well.

Please be aware that if you purchase the DKC-800 system new from Yamaha, this will void your warranty. Modifying a DKC-800 for use as an upgrade system is not endorsed by Yamaha, and both the modification of the DKC-800 and the use of a conversion cable will void the warranty the control unit.

Although I do have a Disclaimer that applies to all of my repair advice, please be especially aware that you do the below at your own risk! This process involves adjusting very tiny DIP switches in the middle of a very expensive piece of equipment.

Check Eligibility

If you have a used DKC-800, there’s a risk it doesn’t have the switches we need. A mid‑2010s DKC-800 usually has DIP switches; earlier units sometimes don’t. Remove the top cover and confirm there is a small four‑position DIP bank on the main CPU board, underneath the CD drive. If you ordered a DKC-800 recently, there will be, so this isn’t a cause for concern!

Hardware You’ll Need

Some links in this article are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Your click fuels hours reviewing old service manuals—at zero added cost to you.

Order a PPR-200E remote control, if you don’t have one. The remote control is mandatory. This is still available from Yamaha as part WN570900, but is also backordered. The remote control can still be regularly found on eBay. The remote uses infrared, and will simply work with any DKC-800 or 850. You don’t have to pair it or do any other configuration.

The DKC-800 can still be controlled through Yamaha’s Disklavier app, but this will not allow you to change the PianoType settings described below.

Phillips screwdriver and ESD strap for safe board handling. There are a total of 13 screws to remove. There are plenty of tiny integrated circuits on this board, and it would be a shame to destroy one with a static shock when you’re this close to a Disklavier upgrade!

For Add-On / Piggybacked Installations

If you’re installing the DKC-800 as an add-on or piggybacked system, you’ll need the PJP-PS02 power adapter. See my article on power adapters for the DKC-800 and DKC-850. And now’s a good time to consider adding a surge protector!

You’ll need a pair of MIDI cables. Although you can get by with only one cable, if you do want to record, you’ll need a pair. You can purchase a pair of cables from Amazon.

For Replacing the Original Controller

If you’re installing the DKC-800 as a replacement control unit, you’ll need the Yamaha conversion cable supplied with retail DKC‑850 kits or available aftermarket. The conversion cable allows you to use the system as a replacement, rather than piggybacking it with your current system. Because Yamaha has discontinued the cable, you’ll need to have one custom‑made. Contact Richie Hayes for assistance, as he’s the expert on building these!

If you opt to purchase a conversion cable and replace your original system, you’ll also need a bracket. See my article on DKC-800/850 brackets here. The part number for this bracket is ZE383601.

Step 1. Open the DKC-800 and Remove the CD Drive

Remove the nine exterior screws, then lift off the top cover. You’ll see several circuit boards, and the CD drive. The CD drive blocks access to the dip switches, and you’ll need to remove it.

Two of the screws holding the CD drive in place are toward the inside of the case.

The other two screws are on the outside of the CD drive. Also visible are the tiny metal tabs: Just shift the CD drive slightly toward the inside of the case to release it.

Once the CD drive is unscrewed from its bracket, you can slide it sideways (toward the inside of the case) a short distance, releasing it. You can then lift it up and move it out of the way, without disconnecting any of the wires.

Step 2. Flip DIP Switch #1

This is the key step!

Set DIP #1 to the ON side of the switch. It will be the only switch of the four in a different position. DIP #2-#4 should remain in their original positions.
Leave all other DIP positions unchanged.
Remount the CD drive.
Re‑assemble the case.

Dip Switch #1 in the proper position. It should be on the right if you're looking at the DIP switch with the text right-side-up. This is very hard to see, and you'll find conflicting information on the internet. But the #1 switch should be far from the number 1. — Dip Switch #1 in the proper position. It should be on the *right* if you’re looking at the DIP switch with the text right-side-up. This is very hard to see, and you’ll find conflicting information on the internet. But the #1 switch should be *far* from the number 1.

Step 3. Connect it to the Disklavier

If you’re connecting the system as a piggyback unit, then connect the DKC-800 to power. Then route the MIDI cables between the DKC-800 OUT to the MIDI IN of your current system. Similarly, connect the MIDI OUT of your current system to the DKC-800.

If you’re installing the system as a replacement, then disconnect the old control unit. Connect your adapter cable to both the original cable end, and the back of your DKC-800. Warning: Never connect or disconnect the piano cable with the power on.

Step 4. Set “PianoType”

If you’re installing the DKC-800 as an “add-on” system (or piggybacking it), then you’ll need to change this setting as well:

Power up the system.
On the IR remote press System ► PianoType.
Select Add if you’re adding (piggybacking) the new DKC‑800 in addition to your original Disklavier control unit.
The controller will reboot and store the setting.

The Add‑On flag ensures the firmware routes MIDI and audio correctly for your wiring scenario.

At this point, your DKC-800 should function just like a DKC-850 upgrade system.

Connecting your DKC-800 to the Internet

I have a full article on connecting your Disklavier to the internet. With the DKC-800, I highly recommend the instructions in my article on how to easily connect your Yamaha Disklavier to Wi-Fi. Using a small wireless bridge device is by far the easiest method of which I’m aware.

How to Convert a Disklavier DKC-800 Control Unit to a DKC-850